Summer Cruise-2nd. May- 17th. August 1999.
A single-handed cruise in company with Ian Wright, sailing "Patience", Vertue2O3, from the River Blackwater Essex, to the South and West coasts of Ireland, and back, via the South Coast of England.
As I have done most of my sailing on the East Coast and to the near Continent, I have for a long time wished to sail in more distant waters, and to this end planned to attempt a circumnavigation of the British isles and Ireland. That we didn’t succeed was of no importance; what was important was that we were able to change our plans to suit the weather conditions we found, and to enjoy the experience, (at least in retrospect, and to say, "Yes, we have sailed in distant waters".
Day 2, 3/5/99 - Pyefleet to Ramsgate.
We got underway at 06:45- a very light air from S-SE with patchy mist and a smooth sea, so ran under engine, as we wanted to make the most of the tide, which was at springs. We used the last of the ebb to take us through the Spitway, across the North Hook, and into the Barrow Deep, where we picked up the first of the flood. The wind had now backed to the East and freshened to F3 so both boats were sailing at their best, making very short work of the passage to the North Edinburgh Channel, via the Sunk Beacon. Here the tide came foul as it floods up the N. Edinburgh for the first two hours of tide, but as the wind continued to back, we were able to hold close hauled until we cleared the channel, and then eased sheets for the North Foreland. Although the breeze died as we came to the Foreland, it became very cold, especially as I was sitting in the shadow of the mainsail. So into Ramsgate at 16:30-4 0 miles in 10 hours- not the fastest passage, but not too bad.
At the end of last season, 1 had fitted an AutoSteer trim tab system which, once set up kept Tesa beautifully on course, and "freed me from the tyranny of the helm", as Edward Allard expressed it in "Temptress Returns".
We listened to the 17:54 forecast which gave NE 5 moderating to NE2/3, and so we planned to go to Eastbourne to-morrow.
Day 3-4/5/99- Ramsgate.
We did not go to Eastboune, in fact we stayed here! Every time I’ve come to Ramsgate, I’ve been held up by the weather. The NE wind stayed at F5-6,and very cold it was. During the night, the participants in a Classic yacht race came in from Holland at 0200, with much shouting and hurrahing. They had had a very rough passage, but the boats were large schooners and ketches with large crews, and so had managed in the stormy conditions.
Day 4 -5/5/99- Ramsgate to Dover
We came out of Rams gate at low water, and took the inside passage down the coast. The surf on the Brake bank was something to see, and one could appreciate just how dangerous this whole area can be. Off the South Fore/and the wind suddenly died, leaving a horribly confused sea; the topping- lift chose this moment to get itself caught round the starb’d upper crosstree, and with the boom slamming back and forth, there was real danger of damage to the mast. However, l was able to cut the topping-lift free, and made repairs once I was in the marina. We spent the afternoon in the town, and later made the acquaintance of Douve Bakker, a Vertue enthusiast from Holland, who was much impressed with both boats. Forecast for the next few days was for SW 4/5-we had wasted the NE wind that had been "sitting in the shoulder of our sails" for the past days, and now we had to get our heads down ,and beat "Down Channel".
Day 5- 6/5/99-Dover to Eastbourne.
Wind SW
We left Dover at 0800 to make the most of the tide as we had some 60 miles to go, and expected to be on the wind the whole way. It was imperative to get past Dungeness before the tide went foul, and to that end I stood out on st’bd tack to the South going traffic lane. It was very rough and wet but Tesa was going well, keeping a ground speed of 5 kts cross tide, and 6½ kts. when on port, which was the making tack. I managed to get past Dungeness at slack water, and decided to keep close inshore, down the western side of the Ness. I had, however, forgotten about the practice area, and was approached by a high-speed launch and told to ‘proceed on a course of 180* for ½ mile." Luckily, the wind just backed sufficiently to allow me to lay across Rye bay, past Fairlight, Hastings, St. Leonards, and Bexhill, and into the Sovereign Marina at 2O:30.
Ian, meanwhile, was having fun!! As he was towing a wooden dinghy, he was slower than me, and had missed the tidal gate at Dungeness-"it shut in me face, mate, it just shut in me face," and he flogged back and forth, dodging the Range Safety boat and getting nowhere. He had had engine problems, and finally got in at 2300, somewhat beat! As a result, to-morrow will be a make do and mend day.
Day6 to Day 9 - 7/5/99 - 10/5/999 Sovereign Marina.
During those four days, Ian had cleared all his problems and I had had to go home on family business. I returned to find Ian "champing at the bit" to be away.
Day 10- 11/5/99- Eastbourne to Brighton.
Wind SSW- F3/4/5- rain showers-cold.
Locked out at 0700 and on starboard tack out to sea to clear Beachy Head. A moderate sea and Tesa was moving comfortably at between 3 and 4 knots. I tacked at 08:45 and with the tide fair, Tesa was making a good 5½-6½ kts. over the ground. Off Beachy Head I was able to free sheets, and make for Brighton, which I entered at 1300. Had the day been warmer, the wind a fraction freer, the sea a little less lumpy, we would probably have cracked on to the Solent- I have done Eastbourne to the Solent in 14 hours, but that was in very different conditions- a warm southerly F3.
Brigh on Marina entrance was as rough as ever, but I was glad to get in. Ian came in about an hour later, and we both slept in the afternoon.! lit the charcoal stove in the evening as it was so cold and damp and kept it going all night. The 5 day forecast posted in the marina office gave some hope of a break in a day or so, so all we could do was "wait and see".
Days 11 and 12 were spent "waiting and seeing"
The The deep depression that was giving us such cold and wet conditions and SW winds of F6, 7, and 8 gradually moved away. We spent one afternoon on the pier-bought rock, rode the electric railway (first in Britain and opened in 1883), and on one evening were invited to drinks on board "Anjura of Java", a Vancouver 32 sailed by John and Jane Collinton. But at last we were able to get on.
Day 13 -14/5/99 -Brighton to Langstone Harbour.
Forecast -S W3-4 veering W-NW-1-2.
Actual -SW-4-5
We left Brighton at 09: 15. I put one reef in the main and hoisted sail in the inner harbour, where it was relatively calm. At the entrance I was met by a very heavy confused sea, the result of days of strong SW winds. After getting through this with the help of the engine, I continued on the off-shore tack, making reasonable progress and feeling pretty good. It’s never a good idea to "feel pretty good" about life when going to windward in a small boat in rough weather, because when I came about to go on the other tack, a big sea broke on the foredeck, swept aft, spilled through the main hatch soaking every thingI It was at this point that I made the resolution that, on this cruise, windward sailing was BANNED!!! Still, at this moment there was nothing for it, but to crash on regardless, picking the west going tide at 10:30, which, as well as helping us along also built up a fine stopping sea. Off Shoreham I put the engine on to help maintain way through the lumpier bits, and gradually Selsy Bill came nearer, but oh so slowly!
The tide began to slacken as I got to the Mixon beacon, and by the time I got to the Street and Boulder buoys, the tide was roaring through against me at some 3kts. It took 45 minutes to clear the channel, but by 18:30 1 was in a slacker tide, had shaken out the reef, and was making steady progress towards Langstone. Ian called up on the radio and asked my position and when I gave it he said that he was a long way back with a strong tide against him, and that he wouldn’t be in before mid-night. I finally got into Langstone at 21:00,and picked up a visitors buoy in the entrance. / signed off with the CG, had supper when Ian came through to say that he had just cleared the Looe channel and was under engine as the wind had dropped completly. He got in just after mid-night, and anchored further up the channel.
A long tiring day for both of us!
Day 14 -15/5/99 -Langstone to Lymington.
Forecast NE3/4 -high pressure building.
Actual-NE 0/1-warm and dry.
As the tide turned we slowly sailed out of the harbour, but the wind soon dropped to a calm and so we motored in company past Portsmouth, Southampton, until off the Beaulieu river, a smart NE-2-3 came in and we were able to sail again- Of to(the Autosteer) working very well in these conditions, which was a square run. We motored into a very crowded marina, found two berths and tidied up. Ian had arranged to have two storm sails delivered here care of the Harbour Master. These were picked up and we settled down to plan for the next phase-Solent to the West Country.
Langstone Horbour
Chichester Harbour
Day 16 -17/5/99- Chapmans Pool to Weymouth.
Forecast-NE-6-8 0cc. 9
Actual - NE-5 gusting 6.
During the night the NE wind had set in, and by dawn was blowing F5-6. The stronger gusts set up a katabatic effect that caused both boats to snatch at their anchor chains, and Chapmans Pool was obviously no place for us if the forecast proved to be accurate. So. having called the CG and ascertained that Lulworth Range was closed, we ree fed, and were away by 0800. We both kept close inshore where the sea was suprisingly smooth despite the fierce gusts that we were experiencing. Of f Lulworth Cove, the CG called to ask what the conditions were like as it was now blowing F7, and there were reports of gusts of 60kts off shore. Ian replied that we were fine and would be in Weymouth by 11:30. We took the town bridge at noon,into the marina, tidied up, and then went into town, had lunch, and watched as the NE wind battered the beach and bay. There were very few people on the Promenade as the wind whipped up the sand and sent it in stinging swirls around the kiosks and play areas, and soon we too had had enough and returned to the boats to write cards, and to plan our next passage.
Day 17-18/5/99- Make do and mend.
There was very heavy rain during the night which washed the boats nicely. We found a convenient laundrette for our washing and an equally convenient pub for our waiting. Then to the Coast Guard station to ask their advice about rounding Portland Bill. Given the recent high winds and the present spring tides, they suggested the "long way" round, that is outside the Shambles Bank, and 5 miles south of the Bill. This made the passage to Brixham a good 16 to 17 hour soil, but as 11e forecast was good-NE-N-NW 3/4, this did’nt sound too bad. We planned and waypoin ted during the ~evening- "we take the 10:OOhr bridge and need to be of f the Bill by 14:00, this will give us the best tide across Lyme Bay"we said-no problems, we said -NE wind-piece of cake! Ah well!
Day 18 -19/5/99- Weymouth to Brixham.
Forecast NE-backing NW- 3-4- showers.
Actual -calm, - visibility-i ½-2 miles
We left as planned, hoping that the forecast wind would soon come in. We motored down past Portland Harbour, and past the East Shambles buoy at 12:35 and on changing course for the West Shambles, found the tide still east going. Once clear of the Shambles bank, and with a now fair tide, we were close-hauled to a WSW light breeze that enabled us to work our way up into Lyme Bay, so that when the tide did go foul , we would be in the least strong stream. As the sun went down, we resigned ourselves to a long slow beat, when, wham!!!, the wind jumped to the NW, and blew up to F4. This was the predicted wind shift, and now we were able to start sheets and lay straight for Brixham, some 19 miles on. Up to now I had had the yankee up, but as Arthur Ransome advised, "never be ashamed to reef in the dark", I dropped this sail, and set the working stays? in it’s place. Both boats were now going very well, and by 22:30 I had picked up the light on Berry Head, and at 02:30 was in the marina. Ian came in 30 minutes later, escorted by dolphins, which are very numerous this year to the delight of everyone except perhaps the local fishermen-" they buddy dolphins, they drive they bliddy bass, don’um m’dear".
So, Day 18 slid into Day 19,
which re-started at 09:30. with a hot shower, a large breakfast, and lots of R and R!
Days 19 and 20
Although the weather started hot and sunny, the brief spell was soon over, and by evening the wind and rain had returned. We explored Brixham, saw the "Golden Hinde", and watched as both Vigilant (Brixham sailing trawler,) and Royalist, the Sea Cadets training brig come into the harbour-grand sights!
By the evening of the 2 1st., the weather showed signs of clearing, and so we made our passage plans for the Yealm.
Day 21 -22/5/99- Brixham towards the Yealm.
Forecast-S W3-4 with good visibility
Actual-the same!!
We made an early start, (0500), and were very soon down to Start Point;-off Dartmouth at 07:30, the Skerries at 0800, and Start Pt.at 08:15.Once out of the shelter of the headland, the wind picked up a notch to F4-5 and backed a point to WSW, keeping us hard on the wind,and into the race For a time I deemed it unsafe to try and go about, so kept on for an hour or so, all the time being carried to the west by the strong tide. By 09:45 I was clear of the roughest water, and when I tacked I realised that the wind had continued to back putting the Yealm dead to windward. Ian called up-"l’m looking at Salcombe" "So am I", I replied. So at half flood we sailed up the river, anchoring above the Bay at 12:30. We were greeted by the Harbour Master who welcomed us, and took £4.25 of f us as harbour dues. It became damp and cold, so I lit the stove, and stayed put for the rest of the day.
Day 22-23/5/99--Salcombe.
With heavy rain on and off all day and strong wind, it was a day to explore. We took a water taxi to the town, and enjoyed a fine Sunday lunch in the Kings Arms, after which we phoned home, replenished stores, and returned to the boats. One of the bonuses of this cruise was meeting other Vertue owners - Roger Robinson, owner of Kandy V39, came on board, stayed for an hour, and, as he left gave me his phone number as he lives very close, offering help if we were stuck here due to the weather There was a promise of better weather by mid-week- there always is-, and so we planned for Plymouth, as the forecast was for SW4-5 and Plymouth was only some 20 miles on.
Day 23 -24/5/99-Salcombe to Plymouth.
Forecast-SW 4/5-mist and poor visibility.
Actual- the same!
We left at 05:50, clearing the bar at 06:20, and stood out to sea to clear Bolt Head. With one reef Tesa was going well, and after half an hour I was able to tack and lay the course for Plymouth. There was very low cloud on the cliffs and headlands, and it was very damp and cold. Plymouth was Ian’s old stamping ground when he was in the Army which was the main reason for coming here, and not going on to Falmouth. As we came into the Sound, we watched as three naval warships, including an aircraft carrier and submarine, got under way and moved out to sea. We went into the Queen Anne Battery marina, had hot showers and lunch, and then spent the afternoon in Plymouth, visiting lan’s old army haunts, and for my benefit the famous Ho! Then back to the boats, to plan for Falmouth.
Day 25-26/5/99-Fowey to Falmouth.
Forecast WSW 2-4 mist.
Actual- same.
We were out of the harbour and through some impressive standing waves at the entrance by 07:30. Greeting our old friend the SW wind with a merry laugh and a saucy quip, we plugged away out to sea on starboard tack for a couple of hours or so, and then felt able to clear the Dodman. An hour later the wind backed to SSW, and then to 5, giving us both a grand close reach right across Veryan Bay and Gerran’s Bay to St. Anthony’s Head. With the coming of the south wind the mist and low cloud had gone, and the sun was out, and everything sparkled. Up Falmouth Harbour, and as I was about to enter the new marina at Port Pen dennis, Ian called up to say that he had engine trouble, so I went back to tow him in. Once in the marina the problem- a loose connection- was soon fixed, and we booked in for two nights, as John joins to-morrow. Although it was a lovely calm sunny evening, the forecast was for SW5-6 with rain.
The following day, (Day 26), started with warm sunshine that didn’t last. By mid-morning it began to rain, showers at first, but more persistent by noon. We used the laundrette as we had a great deal to do, and spent 6 hours getting every thing washed and dried, It poured all afternoon, but by 1600 it slackened off, and I walked up to the CG station at Pendennis Point, to get advice about rounding the Lizard. Most of the personnel had been helicopter pilots from one Service or another, but one had flown Buccaneer fighter bombers, and knew Tom Eeles a friend of mine from the O.G.A, who had also flown Buccaneers . The general consensus was that it would be much better to fly round, but if we were determined to sail, then we should keep very clear of the race especially after a heavy blow.
John arrived in the evening, and after supper and a visit to the pub, we settled in as the SW wind returned with heavy gusts and more rain!
Day 27- 28/5/99- the Fal and Truro rivers
Bright sun and a strong SW wind.
We had a splendid day sailing up as far as the Truro river. We anchored in a very quiet part where the beautiful oak woods covering the steep sides of the valley seemed to have their roots deep in the river; in this place it would not be difficult to imagine Cornish pixies living
Ian was still having problems with his engine - no rev counter or charging, and we feared blown diodes, which would be very costly to repair. He set off back under engine for a shipyard and tried to arrange for an electrical engineer who could sort the problem. John and I had a fine sail back, beating over a rising tide, but when we eventually got back to the marina, we found a very disconsolate Ian who had still not been able to sort out the engine; he had, however, arranged to meet an engineer at Falmouth Marina the following day. There was nothing we could do about it, so we went out and had a fine meal and spent the rest of the evening in the pub.
Day 28 -29/5/99-Falmouth.
We woke to heavy rain and thunder storms!! At 08:00 Ian disappeared into the murk to visit the electrical wizard, and John and I did very little. At mid-day a beaming Ian returned with a fully restored engine, and a relatively full wallet- all the difficulties had been caused by bad electrical connections-,and as an added bonus, the rain eased, the sun came out, and a light southerly breeze sprang up. So we went for a gentle sail up to Penryn, and on the way back, watched as several of the FaI oyster boats raced in the harbour, very fine looking with large mains and striped topsails.
As the evening forecast was favourable for Penzance, we consulted the tide tables, plotted waypoints, and generally made ready for the passage.
Day 29 -30/5/99- Falmouth to Penzance
Forecast SW2-3 veering W-variable
Actual - heavy mist patches and little wind.
We motored Out of the harbour at 0800, hoping to find that things were better out side, but if anything they were worse! There was little else to do but to put on the Auto-helm, and to motor from waypoint to waypoint, and watch the vague shadows in the mist that was the coastline of the spectacular Lizard Peninsula. The waypoints told us when we had rounded the headland, and as we motored slowly across Mount’s Bay, a very light breeze came in from the west, and we were able to shut down the engine, and sail towards Penzance. Half way across, we sighted a fin sticking up out of the water,-the dorsal fin of a large sunfish which was swimming head to tide with it’s mouth gaping wide;-a most exotic looking creature.
Finally St. Michael’s Mount appeared out of the mist, then the entrance to Penzance Harbour, then the land round about. We called up the Harbour Master who directed us to wait on the visitors buoys until the tide was high enough for him to open the Iock, and we entered this working port at 16:30, rafting up against the harbour wall. Very ramshackle ladders enabled us to get ashore, reminiscent
of Ramsgate of twenty years ago, but it all felt PROPER!!
Days 30 - 36.
We now endured a period of very unsettled weather, with rain and gales from the SW-W-NW. As our next passage was to Ireland, a passage of some 160 miles, we needed a period of at least two days of dependable settled weather. And we were not the only ones; by the end of the week, there were a dozen or so boats of all nationalities waiting to move on. We were not idle however; on one day of bright sun we took "Tesa" for a sail to Mullion Cove, some 10 miles down Mount Bay, in a brisk NE wind- we saw a pere grin falcon, and a large family group of dolphins played around and under the boat as we sailed along. On another day we all went to St. Michael’s Mount, - we did our laundry, and found an excellent cafe that did tremendous breakfasts, we visited the local museums, and thoroughly explored Falmouth.Unfortunately, this enforced wait meant that John would be unable to sail to Ireland, as he had other commitments to attend to, and so he left just as the weather window we had been waiting for, arrived!
Day 38-9/6/99- Penzance to Crosshaven.
Forecast -NE 3-4- clear and good visibility.
Actual-NE-2 mist.
We left at 06:45 in light drizzle and T.R’ed the CG giving our ETA as 2200 on the 10th. The light wind took us round Tater Du in no time, the miseries of the night fogotten, and soon the Runnel Stone was abeam, looking very impressive as long lazy swells broke over it; then on course for the Longships and Ireland.
The early part of the trip was excellent, with a good beam reach that had both boats going at their very best. During the morning the wind piped up to F5, and I tucked in a reef, and went just as fast but more upright. As evening drew in the wind began to fade, so out came the reef and on went my thermals, as it had become very cold, and / cooked up a large hot supper, to keep me going through the night. At about mid-night, the sky became overcast and the wind light and variable, but always with a northerly component. At one stage we were almost sailing on East-West headings, and to make some progress we both used our engines,. We closed up so that one could rest while the other kept watch, and in this way we both managed a couple of hours sleep.
Day 39 -1 0/6/99.
At day-break I remember saying, "another bright summer dawn in June", as I shivered under the grey overcast sky, and dug un-enthusiastically into a bowl of lumpy porage. The wind finally settled into the NW-straight from Cork harbour, and this was not a good time. The sea was empty except for a few fishing boats and one naval patrol vessel that gave us the once over before steaming away in the direction of a distant trawler.
By mid-morning the sky had started to clear, Concorde’s double "crack" had startled me-twice- at 10:30 and 11:15, and we chugged slowly on. As the Kinsale gas platforms came in sight, the wind veered to the N so we decided to forget Cork and make for Kinsale, which we could now just lay. No sooner had we tacked than the wind backed to the NW, and to our delight, continued to back until
we had a fine close reach, which took us right to the entrance of Cork Harbour. We past the landfall buoy at 20:15, 37½ hours out of Penzance, and called Irish Marine to ask them to report our arrival to Falrnouth CG. "OK boys, I’ll tell ‘urn," came the reply in a very thick accent. (We were to get very used to that voice in the days to come, as he was the voice of Cork Radio.) So up the harbour, and into Crosshaven, and the hospitality of the Royal Cork Y. C.
Days 40 and 41
We spent the next two days in Crosshavon recovering, and as the weather was cold and wet, we didn’t feel like doing very much. After talking to an extremely voluble tourist information officer, who gave us the history, present ills, and future development plans of the whole of Southern Ireland, all in 10 minutes without pause, we boarded a bus to Carrigaline, the nearest town, to get money and stores. We also had lunch in Rosy’s Carvery- a very un-pretentous looking place on the outside-small shabby blue door- but open that door and it was like entering the Tardis-massive!-three enormous serving counters- roast, salad and vegetarian; a long bar that offered every kind of beverage, and a dozen waitresses scurrying every which way at once. We had a large meal of the best Irish beef washed down with a couple of pints of Murphy’s, followed by magnificent apple pie, and all for £5- I liked Rosy’s Carvery!!
On returning to Crosshavon, Ian retired, and I managed to get my laundry done, at a service laundry. Ian cherished the idea of one day meeting "Mrs. Tiggywinkle", who would be more than happy to do his smalls with a "God bless you, Sir, a pleasure, Sir". Well, my "Mrs. Tiggywinkle" was a very large smiling Irish lad- I did not tell him of Ian’s fantasies!
The next day it was still cold, -we wanted real June weather to warm our bones-so we treated ourselves to a meal at the R.C. Y.C planned the next move, and turned in.
Crosshaven to Kinsale. Forecast- SW-W 3/4-5- mist.
Actual- SW 3-overcast with light rain.
A very light SW wind took us clear of the harbour by 0900. Once out of the shelter of the headland, the true wind, SW 4,set in over a slight sea, and we were close hauled down the coast, past Roberts Head, Rennies Point, then went about to fetch the entrance to Kinsale Harbour. We had a short but exhilarating reach up the harbour, before tying up to the Kinsale Y. C. pontoon. Kinsale itself was very busy with tourists and shoppers and everything open-banks, stores, shops selling very high quality Irish goods, and of course, pubs; and all this on a Sunday afternoon. On the pontoons, we met a couple of other single-handers, who were making a circumnavigation in company of Ireland, and planned to take alI summer over it. After chatting for a while, we anchored off for the night under the lee of a ruined fort, and agreed to make Castle Townsend, some 35 miles to the west, our next port.
For the next nine days, we were to experience what is generally referred to as" typical Irish weather"- strong SW-W-NW winds, with rain or mist. There was very little let-up to this pattern, and during this period we gnawed our way westward along the Irish south coast, which is spectacular, with bold headlands, deep bays and, when the weather lets you see it, a lovely hinterland of distant hills and mountains.
Day 43 - 14/6/99-Kinsale to Castle Townsend.
Ian told me that we had sailed 750 miles so far, and all but a few to windward; and so it was to-day- bash-bash-bash non stop! We left Kinsale in cold, wet conditions, with one reef, rounding Old Head of Kinsale an hour later, where the sea was very rough due to the Race, which we should have avoided, and then on to pass Seven Heads. Next came Galley Head, of which the South & West Coasts of Ireland pilot book warns, "- The head is fairly steep-to, and there are only the rocks you see, but about O•5M SW x W of the head there is the very dangerous Doolic Rock, which is awash at HW, but 1.5 cables to the 55W there is the Sunk Rock, with less than 0•4m over it. Both the flood and ebb streams-2.Skns.-set continually on Doolic and Sunk Rocks,and heavy seas build up." -we avoided Galley Head! By 15:00, in rain and thickening mist, with Galley Head safely behind me, I identified High Island and it’s attendant reefs, ledges and off lying rocks, tacked round Seal Rocks, and skirted Gust) Skiddy Island, before making out the light on Reen Point and feeling my way up Castleha von to drop anchor off Castle Townsend slip. By now the mist outside had clamped right down, and Ian, unable to see anything, was forced to sail back and forth, dodging rocks and islands that he couldn’t safely identify, until, some two hours later, the mist lifted a little and he was able to find the entrance, and anchored close by. He had suffered some damage on the way, and carried away the bobstay due to a fouled anchor, so this had to be repaired before he could sail again.
We stayed for two days, as the mist closed right down, and the wind sang at F6-7 all along the coast. But we didn’t mind, because Castle Townsend was such a nice place; a grand pub-Mary Anne’s-which served the best food we had had to date, very friendly people, and great 
scenery. We watched as the local long boat practiced each evening, rowing up and down the bay and being encouraged by the young cox with shouts of "come on now lads, all to-gether, a last effort, just 5 more -10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1- just another 5----" and so
on. He coxed both the men and women crews, with exactly the same cries of encouragement. and after each training session
Day 50 -21/6/99-Mid summer’s day.
Lawrence Cove to Castletownbere.
The bad weather of the past days had gone, and we left in a blustery NW 5-6, to get much needed stores at Castletownbere, some three miles to the west. The town, with it’s harbour, and shipyards, is one of the busiest fishing ports in the SW, and has everything a visiting yachtsman could need, including very friendly and obliging fishermen. We came in at mid-day,and moored along side some small fishing boats, close to the town quay, and when we asked if we would be in the way there, were told "No, Iads, we’II go fishing when you’ve gone so we will, an’ not before".
A great change had come over the weather-it was calm and dry, and very warm. ln the afternoon, Ian rigged a hammock, and "slept out" as it were, until the prospect of an evening meal and a visit to a pub woke him up. One of the first things we noticed about the town were the very vivid colours of some of the houses-glowing orange walls with bright blue or green window frames and doors-most startling when contrasted with the almost uniform greys of houses in the country areas
We were ready to move on the following day, and got as far as the entrance, when a heavy mist came down, cutting visibility to less that 50 metres. So we turned back to moor alongside the fishing boats again and as we did so one was getting ready to go out, but when he saw us said "bad outside is it now?, I’ll go to-morrow so I will. "We felt better for that! During the afternoon, we met Jim Mottram, also making a long single-handed cruise in "Reservation", a 23ft.Elizabethan.He had started from Christchurch in May, and was on his second circumnavigation of Britain very modest man with vast experience-we were to meet him again.
Day 52-23/6/99 -Castletownbere to the River Blackwater.
We left at mid-day with a light west wind that always threatened to die away. Once out of the harbour the wind became very slack, and we drifted along under engine, making for Dursey Sound, a narrow passage between the mainland and Dursey Island, which would take us into the Kenmare River. As always we were very careful to look out for and avoid the long salmon nets that are set on this coast,so when a small motor-boat approached us from the shore,I looked around hastily to see if I was about to foul one.But the guy was just a Vertue enthusiast who wanted a closer look,and so we motored slowly in company while he enthused,and I said the right things-these boats certainly have a wide following.
The wind shifted,picked up and died, and the tide took us slowly past Black Ball Head, White Ball Head, and so to Crow Head,around which was the entrance to Dursey Sound. Once in the Sound,the wind picked up,and went ahead as it funnelled through the narrows,causing a very confused sea,but the engine pushed Tesa through without difficulty,and I was soon out into the wide expanse of the Kenmare.As soon as we had cleared Cods Head,the whole panorama of the Kerry mountains opened up-range alter range of high hills stretching back and back, the furthest becoming vague shadows on the edge of sight. With a sparkling sea,a free wind,this had become "a five bob "day,as Ian later said,and we sailed on into the evening to finally anchor of I the mouth of the River Blackwater at 21:30. The wind died to nothing,and the boats sat on their own reflections in the warm night air- perfect peace.
Day 53-24/6/99 -River Blackwater to Darrynane.
We woke to a glorious morning, with a light south wind, and sparkling sun. After breakfast, I rowed into the harbour, no more than a small pool really and on into the river for as far as I could go. It was over hung with oaks and pines, and ended in a waterfall about half a mile from the entrance, and was very lovely and quiet, the silence broken only by bird song and the dip of my oars.
We left in the early afternoon for Darrynane,a small rocky harbour on the north shore of the Kenmare. Ian set all sail to the light southerly,and I replied with the cruising chute-a fearsome beast to set when sailing singlehanded- but no sooner had I got it drawing nicely,and was catching him up,than the wind changed to the NW,putting the passage dead to windward. For the next two hours it switched between SW and NW,so that at one time we were sailing north on one tack,and south on the next! As the pilot book warned that the way into Darrynane was difficult, with many rocks, reefs and under water obstructions,and best approached in good Iight,we motored the last few miles between the many islands, until we could pick up the leading marks of the entrance. Once in, the harbour opened out to reveal a snug anchorage,and about a dozen fishing boats and yachts,including Jim Mottram in Reservation. We anchored close under Lamb Island (with lambs grazing) in 3m of very clear water. It was good to be able to sit in the cockpit after supper,and relax with a whiskey while drinking in the beautiful scenery. This had been a good day,and we needed more of them.
Day 54 -25/6/99-Darrynane to Dingb.
"Na lathna na lathna"- in Gaelic, "the day of days", and so this was!
A light southerly, warm sun, high clouds and a light mist forming on the hills; a perfect day for our passage to Dingle, some 30 miles to the north. We were away by 09:30,out of the harbour across the bay, and round Bolus Head by 12:00,and Puffin Island an hour later. Off Puffin Island there was great bird activity- rafts of puffins of course, gannets, sooty shearwaters, razorbills and guiiemots, and many fishing and diving boats. A word about the fishing boats. Their preferred VHF channel is 6, and they use it continually, calling each other up with a series of individual whistles, and speaking in very broad dialects-in some cases so broad as to be un-intelligible, at least to us. t was, however, the whistles that intrigued us, so much so that we started to call each other up using the same method, but without much success as we kept forgetting our whistle code.
The seas off the headlands were quite confused, but nothing to trouble us, and by mid-afternoon we were clear of the last, Beennakryraka, and running across Dingb Bay. The entrance was easily identified although a light mist was beginning to form to seaward ,but with the head of Mount Eagle to the west of the harbour standing clear we still had a good land mark. As I came into the harbour, l Iwas met by Fungi- the famous dolphin, who has made Dingb Bay her home for the past 10 to 15 years and around whom an entire tourist industry has been built. She is said to meet every boat, and I was very pleased that she met me.
We berthed in the marina, and were met by John Murphy, the berthing master, who gave us a warm welcome, and charged us £10 a night, which was later dropped to £9 as our boats were so good to look at, and finally to £4.50 as we were forced to stay so long.
The weather began to break in the evening, with mist and drizzle, but we walked into town, had a good meal, and turned in at 2300.
Days 55 to 63- weather bound in Dingle.
This was the time of the Kerry Rain Festival. It rained and blew for the next nine days in a wide variety of side shows which included two deep depressions, thick mists, two days of thunder-storms,and one bright sunny day, when we should have got on but couldn’t because my batteries were flat! We got to know Dingb well during those nine days, and met many pleasant people, both in the town, and on the other boats. Two such were Glyn and Ivor, who were on board a 12 tonne ketch "Zealander", and it was from them that I was able to borrow a charger for my batteries. The "Malcolm Miller" came in for a couple of days, and "dressed yards" when she arrived and left, a gesture that was applauded by all. Jim Mottram joined us for a few days, and left for the Arran Ises during the short break in the weather. We also, and most importantly, discovered Dick Mack’s pub! This had originally been a cobbler’s shop, and when it was turned into a pub, the shoes, boots and much of the equipment and living quarters were left insitu, resulting in an incredible atmosphere, as well as the best served Murphy’s. Set into the pavement outside were plaques celebrating some of the famous who had visited the place- John Mills, Robert Michum Dolly Patton, Timothy Dalton, Julia Roberts and many Irish politicians from both sides of the Border. It seems as if Dick Mack’s is the place to be seen at-, the O.G.A burgee hangs in pride of place behind the bar to commemorate our visit!
Because of the enforced delays, we reluctantly changed our plans once more, and decided to forget Scotland, and return home by way of the places we had missed on the way out.
Day 64- 5/7/99- Dingle to Portmagee.
In very misty and calm condition, we said farewell to John Murphy, who had been so helpful to us during our enforced stay, and Fungi came out to see us on our way, swimming alongside until we had cleared the headland. There was a barge swell left over from the strong winds of the past week, but a light breeze setting in from the NW enabled us to sail comfortably across it towards Vabentia. By mid-morning the sea mist came rolling in, and as we closed Vabentia Island, we lost all sight of the coast until we were off Bray Head, when the mist lifted just enough for us to see our way into Portmagee Sound. Once behind the headland we were in bright sunshine, and with a soft breeze, slowly sailed up to the village We anchored in 5 m just off the small pier and close to the road bridge, and watched the activity of the ferries and fishing boat that used the pier continually all afternoon. In the evening, we went ashore to the pub, which was very busy as were all the stores and restaurants, which was surprising considering how small the place was.
Day 65- 6/5/99- Portmagee to Bablycroane.
It was warm during the night with rain showers, and a very noisy dog who obviously wanted to go on the fishing boats when they left at 05:30! We left more quietly at 0800 for Ballycrovane Harbour some 25 miles to the south. At first there was very little wind ,but once clear of the Sound, it picked up, and gave us a close reach past Puffin Island, (still lots of puffins), and then a fine sail across St. Finans Bay past Bolus Head, which has an exact likeness to George Washington when viewed from the north, then inside Deenish Island, and so out into the Kenmare. Up to now, the weather had been warm and sunny, but by mid-afternoon, the sea mist and heavy drizzle came in, and it was fascinating to see all the headlands and islands slowly disappear and then re-appear as the mist drifted on. However it was decidedly awkward when the same thing happened as we sailed up Coulagh Bay because of the many small islands scattered
throughout the bay. But we managed to avoid them, and found our way into Ballycrovane Harbour at the head of the bay, and anchored in 3m. The harbour was by far the wildest and most remote we had used,with no village,a nd just a run down pier, a scatter of houses on the hills, and during the night, mysterious lights signalling to each other across the bay. We set our riding lights, watched the seals swimming around us, and turned in after a last look at the night.
Day 66- 7/7/99- Ballycrovane to Sneem.
We woke to another misty almost windless day. Sneem, across the Kenmare, was to be our next harbour, providing we were able to find our way in, as Sneem was even more rock girt than Coubagh. By mid-morning the mist had lifted sufficiently for us to see our way out, and we sailed very slowly through a narrow channel between a large fish farm and lnishfarnard isband, and so out into the Kenmare. The mist thickened, and we were sailing in our own world, with occasional glimpses of the shore, and all the time getting closer to the entrance to Sneem harbour. I had put a very accurate waypoint into the GPS of the centre of the entrance, and was very pleased to find that, when the mist thinned, I was bang in the middle. We found the visitors mooring buoys, and used them rather than anchoring, as it was easier, and during the evening ban invited a young couple, Diana and Jim, over for drinks, and they told us of their plans to sail around the world. I hope they make it.
Day 67- 8/7/99- Visiting.
It was a lovely day, and we rigged Ian’s dinghy with my out board, and motored slowly up the river on the tide, to Sneem village. This was a beautiful little place, full of tourists of all nationabities, and who filled the high-quality shops stocked with Irish linens, woollens, leather goods, glass and ceramics. There were several good restaurants and pubs, and we lunched at the Blue Bull, before getting some much needed suppbies, and heading back to the boats. The Parksanibba hotel was situated some 2 miles away in another arm of the harbour, and we sailed "Tesa" over during the evening, to have a very swish dinner. AII through the meal, we watched a yacht that had gone aground on some rocks, trying to get off before too much damage was done. She lifted on the tide, and anchored near us later in the night, and seemed to be un-damaged, as she sailed with us the following day-a day of strong wind and big seas.
Day 68- 9/7/99- Sneem to Lawrence Cove.
We sailed in bright clear sun with full sail, at 08:30 for Glen garrif, at the head of Bantry Bay. At first the wind was a light southerly but it gradually built up during the morning, until we were roaring along over very large swells coming in from the Atbantic, and both boats sailing at hull speed. Eventually I dropped the genoa, and as we approached Dursy Sound, b put a reef in, although Ian still had full sail as we passed through the Sound and into the bay behind Crow Head. Once clear of the Head, we met a barge and very confused sea that stopped us dead as we started to beat up Bantry Bay. The waves came at us from all sides with very little pattern, and after about an hour I was sick for the first and last time this trip, and feeling very miserable, as there was still some 30 miles to go. With the conditions as they were, I decided to go in behind Bore island, and as soon as I was in the entrance, the wind dropped, the water became smooth, and we both beat slowly up the Haven, and turned into Lawrence Cove marina at 19:30,to enjoy hot showers and a large supper before turning in at 2300.
At the top of Ban try Bay lies Glen gariff Harbour. We sailed up from Lawence Cove in a light, warm NE wind, past a large trawler wreck, and then the oil terminal mooring off Whiddy Island with it’s floating pipe line, and finality past the many mussel rafts, and so into Glen gariff itself. It was here that the Irish Cruising Club was founded in 1929,which probably accounts for the very friendly welcome cruising folk receive here, especially from the Eccbes Hotel, which is "most helpful with baths and showers at all times".
We were to spend 9 days here; some, in hot sun when we went to the lovely Italian style gardens on lllnaculen islands, and swam in the cold waters off the boats, but most lying to dragging anchors as gale force westerlies swept across us with heavy rain squalls. There were several other CA boats in, with "Unda, "a 44ft.Nauticat,owned by Michael and Christine Fraser-Hopewebi, hoisting the "welcome aboard" pennant, and who entertained us to drinks, and later to a fine supper. We made one attempt to get away,but it wasn’t until Day78 that the wind fined down, giving a wet misty beat down Ban try Bay to Castletownbere.
We were unable to moor alongside our friendly fishing boats as the ferry slip nearby was under repair, so we anchored off in the designated area, where, the pilot book informed us, "there is good mud". This claim was to be tested over the next 72 hours as the mother and father of all storms swept across SW Ireland, causing damage on land as well as at sea- the lifeboat was called to a yacht caught out, and escorted her into the harbour. But the bad weather finally died down, and we were able to get on our way, after a hard struggle to free the anchors from the "good mud".
Day 81- 22/7/99- Castletownbere to Schull.
Anti-cyclonic conditions were forecast for the next few days, with predominantly NW-N-NE winds, and it seemed an ideal time to make the crossing back to England. There was, however, one more place we were told we shouldn’t miss-Schull or Skull Harbour-, in Long Island Bay, and as it was as good a jumping-off placs as any, we made it our last port-of-call. We sailed in bright sun, with a brisk NW 4-5,on a broad reach and over a surprisingly calm sea, past Sheeps Head, Three Castles and Mizen Head,and along the coast to Long island Bay It was grand sailing, with the wind free and the air warm and dry,especialby grand because the first time along here had been very different-cold, wet, and the wind stubbornly on the nose!
We sailed up Schull Harbour to-gether, and anchored in the area indicated by the pilot book. This was a much bigger place than we had expected, with, it seemed, hundreds of moorings, and many children and young people sailing in a wide variety of racing dinghies. There was also a sail maker, which was important as Ian’s jib needed attention a seam had split on the way down. "Ah, lads, l’m not sure; me girl’s out racin’ fierce hard, an’ she may not be in to-morrer. Leave it wid me an’ I’ll see what’s to be done". It was in fact repaired that evening, and we collected it the following morning, after having had a hot shower in a cubicle at one end of the sail loft! A fine lunch in the town, Iast minute shopping, and we were ready for the crossing.
Days 82-84- 23-25/7/99- Schull to Penzance.
We sailed at 16:30,in near perfect conditions-a beam reach, slight sea and a very promising forecast for sea areas Fastnet and Lundy-v3-4 with clear, dry conditions for the next 48 hours. I made a TR. to Bantry radio, giving our ETA .as the afternoon of the 25th.-we expected to take 40-48 hours on the 185 mile passage and felt strong and well rested.
At dusk, the wind had backed to the SW, and we ran on easily in the light wind, and enjoying every minute. The icing on the cake was the 3/4 moon, which flooded the night sky with a soft light, and which lit the few high clouds in magical beauty. Except for "Patience", no other shared this night with me, and I had no desire to go bebow, but rested and watched from the cockpit.
By early morning the wind had dropped to nothing, so I started the engine, and put many amps in, as the wind flickered from 0 to 1/2 all day. Concorde announced it’s passing twice and as the second evening faded into night, there was the most glorious sunset-reds and golds flaming up, and then quickly dying down as the sun slipped below the horizon. I had been able to sleep a little during the day, but now rested below, popping up every hour, but each time there was only the starboard light of "Patience" away on my port quarter. By 0400 on the 25th.,the wind swung into NE, and gradually picked up to F3,and we creamed off on the best of all points of sail- a close reach! We were soon in sight of the Seven Stones away to starboard, and by 1100 were off the Longships, and looking for the Runnel ,when the wind dropped and we were left to motor against a strong tide. The chat on Ch6 was all about the Tall Ships race, and the position of "Duet’ who was 18 miles ahead of the fleet-"and she couldn’t be, mate not with her handicap". It turned out that "Duet’s" navigator had put in the wrong waypoint, and "was now hanging off the stern on a long llne, mate"-all this,and much more, in strong Australian accents.
At Tater Du, the wind came back, and I had a fine beat across Mounts Bay, and into Penzance Harbour at 1600 fantastic!
Day 89- 30/7/99- Penzance to Helford.
We had been held up in Penzance for 4 days due to very strong easterlies, but as soon as these had died down, we were able to get on. I had always wanted to re-visit the Helford river as I had spent a holiday there as a boy, and could remember the river as being very beautiful. As we turned in by the Manacles, the whole river opened up, and it was as I remembered it, and in the evening, we took the dinghy up river to land at the Shipwrights Arms, where we had a meal and fine beer. It was very still that night, and we both enjoyed the quietness and slept well.
Day 90-3 1/7/99- Helford- Falmouth- Cawsand.
As Ian needed diesel and we both needed supplies, we sailed up to Falmouth in the morning, stopping at the Port Dennis marina as before. We were not too enamoured at the prospect of motoring all the way to Plymouth, as during the day there had been a flat calm, but by mid-afternoon a fine north wind set in ,and at 17:30 we were on our way. It was a grand sail as the headlands were past in turn, and the words of "Spanish Ladies" kept running through my mind;
"And the first land we saw, it was called the Dodman,
Next Rame Head off Plymouth, Start, Portland and Wight." Well, we weren’t of f the last three yet, but there was the Dodman, and Rame Head was passed at 0300,so we were partway through the song. We dropped anchor off Cawsand beach at 0400,and turned in for a well deserved sleep.
Over the next week, we slowly made our way up Channel, sailing when the wind was free, and enjoying the good weather. We called in to the Yealm and the Dart, spending two days in each, and seeing as much of the towns as we could
Day95- 5/8/99- Dartmouth to Weymouth.
Forecast-S W2-4 -backing S3-warm and clear.
Start,Portland and Wight."
It was important that we reached Portland Bill by 1300 to catch the tidal gate, and so we left Dartmouth at 0130,with the SW wind as forecast. Just as I was leaving the marina, Il was hailed from the shore by a young chap who had got himself stranded on the east side, and wanted a lift across to the west town. Having delivered him across, l set off in pursuit of lain, who was, by now, well on his way. It was a beautiful night, with a half moon and a moderate following breeze, that fell a little at sunrise, and then backed to the south. H.M.S. Grafton was out exercising her helicopters, and making threatening noises at an unidentified submarine, and much later, I watched a TV programme called "Thursday’s War", which featured this very event.
By 1 100,Portland lifted above the horizon, and gradually drew nearer, and it was now that I made a fundamental error where rounding Portland is concerned; I underestimated the speed that I was being set down the coast by the tide and consequently got set into the Race! The next ½hour was very frightening, with "Tesa" being thrown about all over the place, but gradually I pulled out of it, and suddenly was in smooth water, and sailing calmly up the east coast to enter Weymouth at 1600.Once in the marina, break fast/lunch/tea was consumed, and after a rest, we walked into town, and sat in a quayside pub for the evening-a nice end to a long, long day!
Day 96 - 6/8/99 - Weymouth.
A day of easterly wind, and heavy rain. I spent the day cleaning the boat and charging up the batteries at the near-by bus station, where the mechanics were more than helpful, and didn’t charge me! Later ,we went to look at the famous sand-sculptures, and sat on the Prom watching Punch and Judy, and ,like all the other adults, pretending not to. The rest of the day was spent dodging the rain, and not much else.
Day 97- 7/8/99- Weymouth to the Solent.
It was a lovely clear morning with a light S-SW wind, and a perfect day to get us to the Solent. I collected the batteries, and we took the 1000 bridge opening, and left. As I said at the begining, Ian had been towing his wooden dinghy all through the cruise, and claimed that it was this that slowed him up so much. I claimed that he had a slow boat anyway, and that the dinghy’s drag didn’t effect anything, so to prove my theory, I agreed to tow the thing and show him how wrong he was. He then cracked on all sail, and went happily ahead, announcing that his new call sign was to be "Free Spirit", and that mine was now "Back of Beyond".
The coastal features and beaches sparkled in the bright air, and I sailed close in to photograph Durdle Dor, the stone dragon that sleeps on the beach by Lulworth Cove, and attempted to "hand-rail" round St.Alban’s Head, and Anvil Point where the tide ran at 2½kts. We had an easy sail across to the Needles Channel, and ,with a strong tide under us tore through the Hurst Narrow, just as the first of the Fastnet racers, the big trimarans, came down the Solent, followed by the maxis, and strung out behind them, the rest of the fleet.
By 2000,we were anchored in the Beaulieu River, close to the marshes,a nd as the night came on, we watched as the last of the Fastnet fleet drifted away to the west.
Day98- 8/8/99- Beaulieu River to Chichester Harbour.
Awoke at 0600 to a strong east wind and heavy rain- not thebest start to the day, but to our relief it brightened up somewhat, and by 0900 it had brightened up into a very good day-warm sun and a grand south wind. We were soon away on a fine beam reach, a cross the Solent under full sail, with me still towing the dinghy, and Ian swooping past first on one side and then the other, as the "Viper" did to the "Wildcat" in Arthur Ransom's "Peter Duck". We timed the tide weII, and reached Chichester Harbour entrance just as the tide began to make, and sailed slowly past all the well known places Thorney island, Bosham Creek, ltchenor and in to Chichester Yacht Basin at 18:30. Having cleaned up, we ate at the Chichester Yacht CIub, made phone calls home, and turned in early as we were both beat.
We stayed in the Basin for the next 3 days, until the rather un-settled weather with NE-B winds, swung back to the W-NW.
Brother Richard, who lives Iocally, spent one day with us, and on the 11th., along with thousands of others, we watched the Solar Eclipse, using Ian’s sextant, and saw 98% totality. We both found the experience rather awe inspiring, and solemnly toasted the sun as it returned! We explored Birdham Pool, and found another Vertue "Farsight", as well as "Capona" and "Fab" which both have berths in the Basin. I liked the Chichester area, as there were many fine traditional yachts to look at and admire, but when the weather turned as forecast, it was time to go.
Day 102- 12/8/99- C. Y.B. to East Head.
We locked out at 13:45,and sailed very gently down to East Head, where we anchored for the night. (On the way down we saw two more Vertues, "Contessina", and "Chinita ", both looking smart and well cared for, and shouted greetings, as one does.) The forecast was for S-S W-W 2-3,and it looked as if we had cracked it at last!
"---And we sailed by Beachy, by Fairlight and Dungeness,
‘till we came to our anchors at the South Foreland light."
Day 103- 1 3/8/99- Easthead to Eastbourne.
Away from Easthead by 05:30,and out of the harbour by 0600, close-hauled to a light SSE breeze, and with a metre under the keel. At 07:30 we were into the Looe channel off Selsey, and with eased sheets flew along with a strong tide under us- 7½-8kts. ground speed. With a strengthening wind the sea began to build, and the ride became exciting, and I set the yankee to gradually catch up with Ian, who had again allowed me to tow the dinghy The seaside towns soon slipped by, and as Beachy Head drew closer, it looked as if we would carry our tide all the way. Off the Head, there was quite a tumble, and we watched as the Newhaven Lifeboat exercised in the rough water. The wind was now up to f5 SW, which was a dead run to Sovereign marina, and "Tesa" wallowed along in the sloppy conditions, but by 1600 we were in, tired and hungry, and looking at the prospects for the morrow. The forecast was good, so we decided we would go on, and planned to lock out at 0700 to make the most of the tide.
However during the night, the wind got up to f7, causing the Lifeboat to be called out to two yachts in difficulties off the Royal Sovereign, and both looked pretty battered when we saw them the next day. The wind was still high in the morning, so we decided to stay for the day, but were able to move on on Day 105.
Day 105-15/8/99- Eastboune to Dover.
With a westerly 3,we locked out at 08:00,and set full sail for the run across Rye Bay. We stayed close in to keep out of the last of the west going tide, which went slack off Fairlight, so I gybed and ran on for Dungeness. By now the wind had increased to f4-5,so I dropped the yankee and set the stays’l boomed out, and seemed to go just as fast, but in greater comfort. I passed a quarter of a mile to the south of Dungeness, where the seas built to up into large waves and rollers, and it was obvious that it was much easier close in, but before I could do much about it, a massive wave broke close astern, swamped the dinghy, rolling it over, and almost sweeping it aboard. For a moment it was stationary in the water, then as "Tesa" surged ahead, the painter came taut, pulling the ring bolt out of the bow transom, and breaking the safety line, and the dinghy rolled over again, and was gone! The tremendous jerk as the dinghy broke free caused "Tesa" to slew round and gybe all standing with the boom slamming across the cockpit, just missing my head by a fraction of an inch. I called up Ian, who took the news of the loss very philosophically, and although he sailed over the area, he couldn’t see it, so he reported the loss to the C.G., with a full description, and we sailed on.
The seas continued to build, with "Tesa" rolling as badly as ever, and when I got to the western entrance of Dover Harbour, with f6 winds, the tide now running against us, and very rough seas, things became very, very fraught! Once in the Harbour it got a little better, but not much as the Harbour launch insisted on staying with in a few feet of me as I was trying to drop sail, and get ready to enter the marina. (just in case you need any help, Sir.) It only left me when it saw Ian coming in just ahead of, and holding up, the Sea Cat ferry. And Ian’s reply, when asked to move a bit faster, is not printable! But by 1700 we were both berthed in the marina, and recovering from the day.
Day 106- 1 6/8/99- Dover to the Come.
Warning!- crossing the Thames Estuary can be fraught with danger, and the passage should never be taken for granted!
The weather seemed set fair for what looked like an easy passage, -W-SW F3-4, with a slight risk of showers, and possibly an occasional thunderstorm. So we worked out the tides, plotted the waypoints, and left Dover in warm sun and a light SW breeze, at 11:30, to push against the last of the tide flooding down through the Straits. As we approached Ramsgate, we became entangled with a number of racing fleets, all taking part in Ramsgate Week, and finding two cruisers slowly sailing through their course a hazard not mentioned in the race instructions! Still, they were very slippery, and we soon parted company, much to everyone’s relief, and slowly made our way past the East Margate buoy, the Tongue Sand Tower, and into the North Edinburgh channel. We had been watching a large and very black cloud moving slowly up from the SW, and as we passed into the channel, it looked as if it would go ahead of us, but then it seemed to change it’s mind, and slammed us, bringing a NW blast full of torrential rain, that blinded us, and kicking up a short head sea that stopped us dead! We also lost all visibility, and now had the stream against us, so that progress was very slow, and it took a good hour before we were clear of the channel, and on our way across the Black Deep towards the Sunk Beacon. Two large freighters making for the N.E.channel, caused some concern, but they were soon passed, and lost in the rain astern.
By 2000 we had cleared the beacon, and with the tide well and truly under us, and the storm well ahead still flashing and banging, we swiftly came up the Barrow Deep, and started crabbing across the tide, to make the Spitway. The wind stayed in the NW, so rather than beat back and forth with the tide taking us steadily NE, we took the easy option, downed sail, and motored through the Spitway, passed the Knoll, and up into the Colne. We anchored by Bateman’s Tower, off Brightlingsea at 2400, 12½ hours from Dover, tidied up, and turned in for the last night of the cruise.
Day 107- 17/8/99- Colne to Heybridge.
High tide at Heybridge lock was 1700, so we had all day to get there. I went ashore to phone to both homes to confirm our arrival, and then spent the rest of the morning tidying the boat and me. We got our anchors at 1200, and with a light SW wind, l beat out to the Bar buoy, and then sailed slowly up the Blackwater. By the time I got to Stone, l realised that I was much too early, so dropped the main, and sailed in close company with "Patience" up to the Basin. There a little crowd of family and friends welcomed us back, and once in the lock it was hello’s and greetings all round.
It was very good to be back, and our only regret was that we had not completed that which we had set out to do-the circumnavigation of the British Isles. But we had taken the boats some 2000 miles, and sailed in some lovely waters, and met many interesting and friendly people, so in that sense the cruise was a great success!
Charts and Pilot books
Throughout, we used the lmray "C" range of charts, which were excellent for passage planning and making, and had very useful plans of the main harbours of the area, as well as being printed on water resistant paper. The lat. and Long. grids were a real boon for plotting purposes, but the scale was generally too small for accurate coastal work, and for this we used the C.A. Handbook and Almanac, and the Irish Cruising Club Sailing Directions for the South and West Coasts of Ireland. Both books were excellent, with clear directions and full of vital information. We also had on board the Sailing Directions for the Scottish waters and the East Coast, but these were not used.