Cuba

Cuba - first visit

In the early hours of Sunday morning 11th April 1999 we approached Punta Maisi, the Eastern end of Cuba and later on we entered the port of Baracoa and anchored fore and aft with assistance from the harbour master in his rowing boat.

The approach to Baracoa is marked by El Yunque, the flat topped mountain behind the town, identified by Columbus when he first landed here in 1492

About an hour later the harbour master brought the officials to visit us. There were 5 of them, some in uniform and some not - led by a lady of the Interior Ministry - others were perhaps border guard, customs, immigration, quarantine etc - we sat them around the cabin table down below for them to do their paperwork and gave them Coca Cola to drink - much appreciated. According to our most up to date information this port was supposed to be a Port of Entry where we could be issued with visas. However this was no longer the case and so we could not be permitted ashore until we had cleared in at such a Port of Entry the nearest of which was at Bahia Naranjo about 90 miles West.

See the outline chart for Eastern Cuba for further geographical details.

By all accounts the town would have been a very pleasant place to visit. Indeed the views from our anchorage confirmed this and so we were disappointed with this news.

Three views of Baracoa from our anchorage - looking East (above)

- and West (below)

Next morning we were issued with a "Despacho de Salida" (Departure clearance) from the Interior Ministry lady and weighed anchor and left. There being very little wind and not wishing to carry on motoring all night, we stopped just inside the port of Cayo Moa and anchored behind a mangrove spit called Punta Carenero. The Harbour master called us by radio and we received permission to stay the night! This was to be the only place in Cuba where we did not show our papers! We were always impressed by the good manners, courtesy and correctness of the officials who dealt with us and were further impressed by the friendliness of almost everyone we met.

Next day we left and again there was very little wind at first and so we motored (with mainsail up) for about 6 hours until we got a sufficient breeze to sail. Again deciding not to sail overnight we headed into the Bahia de Nipe, the first of the large pocket bays which are a feature of this part of the Cuban coast. Typically they have narrow deep (and well marked) entrances leading to wide expanses of sheltered navigable water which would provide excellent cruising opportunities if only one was permitted to do so. We sailed into the narrow entrance (about 1/2 mile wide) and were very quickly spotted by the Guarda Frontera, and as we rounded the headland and dropped anchor they got into their open motor boat and came out to see us. They (3 of them in uniform) were satisfied to see the documentation from Baracoa and to hear that next day we were to proceed to Bahia Naranjo for our visas. Again of course we were not permitted ashore but we saw and heard some farm animals which belonged to a nearby farming school.

Next morning we were seen off by the Guarda Frontera and with a gentle NEly breeze sailed the 40 miles or so past Cabo Lucretia and into Bahia Naranjo. Just East of the entrance there were 3 conspicuous hotels on the beach protected somewhat by a drying reef. We sailed about a mile or so up the harbour then took our sails down and motored up towards the small marina near which we anchored in the company of 9 other yachts. Soon we were visited by Leonardo the Guarda Frontera man, and eventually his friend the doctor and Bruno the customs man. They did a certain amount of paperwork but explained that immigration would be done next day. One thing we needed was to fill our water tanks. Leonardo explained that this would be no problem in the marina but we would have to wait for the one berth accessible to us to be free. Unusually this marina had a low roof covering all but the end T-head berth on which was moored a day-charter catamaran. Next morning we saw the catamaran leave and so we up-anchored and went alongside the dock and started filling with water. Then a man came and asked us how much water we were using - I said about 50 litres - well it may have been a bit more - I don't know. I was then surprised to hear back from him that we should pay US$10 for water. This was a surprise since I had understood from Leonardo (and everything that I had read about cruising in Cuba) that water was free. Then Leonardo came and they all proceeded to have a discussion about the price of water. The result of this was eventually that in our case on this occasion water was free but we agreed to let others know that from this time onwards water was no longer free! We received visas in our passports from Leonardo at the cost of US$15 each, then left the dock re-anchored then came ashore for a walk - our first since leaving Bonaire some 9 days before. We walked Northwards and saw the 3 hotel complexes and the helicopter airfield. The hotels were quite new Spanish-Cuban developments - quite luxurious with many pools, bars and restaurants, and run on an all-inclusive basis. We were given guided tours. On the airfield there was a large Russian built helicopter which would take tourists for rides. We walked past a golf course and found a small bar for cocktails and then later got a ride back to the marina in a horse-drawn open carriage. This was a dollars only tourist area. What we really wanted to see was the real Cuba. So next day we checked out with Leonardo and Bruno and motored round Bahia de Vita.

This is Emmanuel and Sandrine on their boat "Lutin" in Bahia Naranjo. They had gone to Haiti and they been attacked by a gang of pirates. Fortunately they were not harmed but the pirates stole whatever they could get their hands on and slashed a lot of the boats gear with their machetes

It was quite a pretty looking harbour. We looked around a bit and then anchored just West of the port. Needless to say the Guarda Frontera came out and checked our paperwork.

Old-fashioned patrol-boat at the dock in Puerto Vita - from where we anchored

Next morning we up-anchored and motored out of Bahia de Vita. For a couple of hours we motored in very light Ely winds and the off Gibara we got enough wind to sail. About mid-afternoon we entered the pocket bay of Puerto Padre and sailed the 2.5 miles through the narrow entrance and then past the large commercial sugar dock of Carupano and then up to the town of Puerto Padre where we anchored. It looked like an attractive town but with a fresh onshore breeze blowing at this stage I did not think that our now rather tired folding plywood dinghy would be happy with the 3 of us (Simeon, Patrick and myself) doing a beach landing in surf, and so we stayed aboard that night. Next morning we were motoring back towards the Carupano dock when we were met by a Pilot boat and boarded by 3 officials (2 harbour pilots and 1 Guarda Frontera) and were directed to follow the pilot boat and then to anchor off the commercial wharf at Carupano. Our papers were seen to be in order but they were disappointed that we had not checked in with them on arrival the previous day. In consequence they searched us for a couple of hours. Just a routine check you understand, because we hadn't checked in with them the previous day. However they were very careful to put things back where they came from and they were careful to give us a certificate of having been searched. This we thought might be important later on. Click here to see the search certificate.

They had expected to get picked up, but in the absence of their boat we were directed to up-anchor and go alongside a small tug on the wharf so that they could disembark. Then these 3 left but 2 more came (this time a customs man and a Guarda Frontera corporal). They filled out some more forms and then left. After such an exciting morning we had lunch and then slipped the mooring and got going down-channel. However it had got quite breezy and a bit late in the day by this stage to leave for the next port down the coast. So just before the narrow-necked entrance channel we turned right and anchored behind the deserted island of Cayo Puerco. We had been there a couple of hours when the younger harbour pilot came back in his boat and told us that we couldn't anchor there and that if we were not going out to sea immediately we would have to follow him back to the commercial wharf and anchor there for the night, which we accordingly did. That night we went ashore and after sharing a little rum with a man who lived in quite a decrepid hut we found a seaman's bar in the docks and proceeded to have a couple of beers in the company of some Philipino, Palestinian and Ukrainian seamen. Just outside a local fisherman offered me a bag of 7 cooked lobsters for the princely sum of US$5! Naturally enough this intrigued me and after examining the produce I bought them. So we went back to the boat and feasted on lobster!

Dorado caught off the North coast of Cuba

In the morning we up-anchored and were proceeding down channel when we were told on the radio to go back to the dock for a new clearance to be issued. Well not wanting to get on the wrong side of them we complied and went alongside the tug boat again and 3 officials came aboard and inspected our documents. Furthermore they inspected our gash bin and our dry food stores! This was just another health check you understand! They then left satisfied and we were permitted at last to leave. We motored out through the entrance channel, got sail up and sailed to the next place Bahia de Manati. We sailed the couple of miles up the channel then anchored in the lee of a jetty at the direction of the reception committee who then came aboard from their rowing boat and inspected our papers. One thing that continued to surprise me about these inspections was that each lot always managed to ask something new - something that had never been asked before - this lot asked for complete dimensional details about our dinghy - length, breadth, depth, material of construction and horsepower and make of engine (actually a pair of oars!) - and asked to inspect our stored vegetables - actually fairly few at this time not having been able to do any provisioning since our stay in Bonaire. But having made the inspection they duely gave us a certificate of "vegetal sanity". It was jolly good to know that in their opinion our vegetables were of sound mind! To be fair they did choose to fill out the English side of the form for our greater convenience. It's just that their translators need to improve their skills a bit. Click here to see the certificate of Vegetal sanity.

That evening we went ashore in search of the real Cuba again. We found a bar but could not change any US dollars into Pesos and so went for a bit of a walk until we were invited to drink some rum with various locals. We did certainly find the people to be very friendly, welcoming and hospitable.

Next morning we up-anchored and motored down channel, went out of the Manati channel and got sail up and sailed in the gentle/moderate NEly breeze towards the next pocket bay entrance of Bahia de Nuevitas. After about 6 hours we were passing the Guarda post in the channel and spoke to the Harbour Master on the radio to confirm our intentions.

The Guarda post in the channel of Bahia de Nuevitas - paintings and slogans proclaiming the revolutionary activities of Che Guevara were seen on the walls

About half an hour later we spoke to him again and received strict instructions that we were to proceed directly to the commercial ship dock called Tarafa. This we agreed to and proceeded there. There we went alongside a wooden boat which was moored on the sheltered side of the dock complex and received 3 officials on board who did their necessary paperwork. That completed we slipped the mooring and anchored perhaps half a mile away behind a low headland. In the morning we went ashore leaving the dinghy pulled up on the beach nearby and walked into town - perhaps 3 or 4 miles away. This was a real Cuban town with a market, shops, Post Office and we found that we could change money outside the American shop. These had previously been known as "Diplotiendas" or diplomats shops but now were de-regulated and within bounds to any Cuban who wished and could afford to shop there. However everything inside was priced in US dollars and hence the need for money changers outside. One could buy US dollars for 22 pesos and we sold our US dollars for 20 pesos. We found indeed that we could get quite a lot for 20 pesos compared to what one could get inside the American shop for US$1. We bought vegetables in the market, sugar, and postcards and stamps at the Post Office, had haircuts at the barbers and had lunch at a restaurant. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there before walking back to the dinghy and getting back to Ramprasad in the evening. Next day we made a similar trip. It was clear that most Cubans stayed in good health partly because most local journeys were done on foot or on bicycles. There were cars, lorries and buses to be seen but it was relatively rare to see them moving. Clearly fuel shortage or perhaps the high cost of fuel had an effect. There were old American 1950's cars - occasionally we saw one moving on the road but mostly they were lying in gardens and clearly hadn't run for ages. Previously at the Bahia Naranjo resort we had seen one or two restored American cars being run as tourist taxis. Clearly the expense and effort of restoration was worth it for the tourist market. Most other motorised vehicles were of Soviet origin. We met many friendly people on the streets. Despite our limited capabilities with the Spanish language we got something of an insight into the great spirit and character of the Cuban people coping with the great economic difficulties which they face. Political slogans were much in evidence in any public place and even on the front doors of houses along the road. "Fidel - somos contigo!" (-Fidel - we are with you!) was one such. Also there were some signs of religious affinity. Clearly the catholic church held sway with a significant proportion of the population.

When we got back to the dinghy at the end of our 2nd day's excursion we were surprised to find 4 members of the Guarda Frontera waiting for us. They asked us what we were doing and we said that we had just been into town. They were unhappy that we had not left someone aboard the yacht. I hadn't felt the need since we were anchored in a place where it was very unlikely that anyone could need us to move out of the way. However they required that we surrender our cruising permit to them subject to our presence in the Port Captain's office at 8 o'clock in the morning. And for me to get the cruising permit from Ramprasad they held Patrick hostage on shore. There were clear signs that they had tried to use our dinghy to get out to the yacht but perhaps had thought better of the idea. These border guards were really soldiers who clearly had little in the way of boating skills. However with cruising permit surrendered and Patrick back on board we enjoyed some of purchases of that day. We had found a family who had had a good crop of large green peppers. We bought some at the price of 3 peppers for 1 peso!

At 0730 next morning we up-anchored and by 0745 we were alongside the blue wooden boat at the dock again in plenty of time to get to office by 0800. However the Port security men at first did not allow us ashore. It took some time for us to explain about our appointment and eventually, leaving Patrick on board, Simeon and I were permitted to walk through the port complex and out through the port gates. Eventually we found the office but by this stage we were late! The proceedings started with a ticking off for being late for our ticking off! We explained about the reluctance of the port security men and we were forgiven that trespass. We were then asked why we had not left someone on board Ramprasad all the time. I apologised but explained that I had understood that their instruction had applied only for when we were alongside the dock rather than when we were at anchor. The apology was accepted but they said that we should go back to the boat and wait for more paperwork to be done. Actually at 10 o'clock a search party of four men and a dog came. I explained that we didn't need to be searched because we'd been searched already and had the certificate to prove it. But that was the Guarda Frontera you see, and this was the customs and so they were going to have to search us again as if from scratch. The dog was a spaniel called Johnny. He had a good look but didn't find anything then the humans had a good look for about 2 hours. They also didn't find anything but they were careful to put everything back where it belonged. They did ask about a lot of things and we explained as best we could and opened things for inspection whenever asked. As before they were not really looking for anything. They were just searching us as a punishment. We were quite happy to cooperate. We didn't have anything to hide. Towards the end some of the search party were clearly getting a bit bored and were easily distracted by anything which caught their eye. They were clearly interested in any paperwork and we found it strange to see their interest in something as common to us (but not to them) as an itemised supermarket receipt. Eventually the search came to an end and as before we were issued with a search certificate. Click here to see the search certificate. However they told us to wait for a further inspection.

Two views of our search party departing on a rather overloaded Russian motorcycle combination

In due course a safety inspector came and inspected various safety aspects of the boat. I started the engine for him and demonstrated various aspects of the electrical systems on board including the navigation lights. He then sat down at the cabin table to do his paperwork. He explained that what he was giving me was a very important piece of paper that would permit us to cruise in Cuban waters for a period of six months. He then asked me to sign a document which said "I agree to pay the sum of US$50 as the fee for the safety inspection". I refused to sign. We had been cruising in Cuban waters for 12 days by this stage without the need for such a safety inspection certificate and I did not see the need for it now. Eventually the inspector left but he seemed to be a bit grumpy. This was the only person who we met in the whole of our time in Cuba who I could describe as being unfriendly. The port captain officer came back and explained that he was really sorry but if we were not prepared to pay the US$50 inspection fee he would have to ask us to leave Cuba. After consulting with Simeon and Patrick we agreed to this. We would have liked to have stopped at one or two other places along the Cuban coast before leaving for Florida but it was not worth paying US$50 to be able to do so. They asked if we had a typewriter on board. Intrigued I answered in the negative and they said that it wouldn't be so good but they would have to write it out by hand. I then helped them compose the letter expelling us from Cuba. They added the words "We are very sorry for it". Click here to see the expulsion letter. We were also provided with clearance certificates of more conventional form both from the Port Captain and the customs. At last on this St Georges Day 1999 we were free to make our departure from the port of Nuevitas for our further adventures!